Background: #fff
Foreground: #000
PrimaryPale: #8cf
PrimaryLight: #18f
PrimaryMid: #04b
PrimaryDark: #014
SecondaryPale: #ffc
SecondaryLight: #fe8
SecondaryMid: #db4
SecondaryDark: #841
TertiaryPale: #eee
TertiaryLight: #ccc
TertiaryMid: #999
TertiaryDark: #666
Error: #f88
/*{{{*/
body {background:[[ColorPalette::Background]]; color:[[ColorPalette::Foreground]];}
a {color:[[ColorPalette::PrimaryMid]];}
a:hover {background-color:[[ColorPalette::PrimaryMid]]; color:[[ColorPalette::Background]];}
a img {border:0;}
h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {color:[[ColorPalette::SecondaryDark]]; background:transparent;}
h1 {border-bottom:2px solid [[ColorPalette::TertiaryLight]];}
h2,h3 {border-bottom:1px solid [[ColorPalette::TertiaryLight]];}
.button {color:[[ColorPalette::PrimaryDark]]; border:1px solid [[ColorPalette::Background]];}
.button:hover {color:[[ColorPalette::PrimaryDark]]; background:[[ColorPalette::SecondaryLight]]; border-color:[[ColorPalette::SecondaryMid]];}
.button:active {color:[[ColorPalette::Background]]; background:[[ColorPalette::SecondaryMid]]; border:1px solid [[ColorPalette::SecondaryDark]];}
.header {background:[[ColorPalette::PrimaryMid]];}
.headerShadow {color:[[ColorPalette::Foreground]];}
.headerShadow a {font-weight:normal; color:[[ColorPalette::Foreground]];}
.headerForeground {color:[[ColorPalette::Background]];}
.headerForeground a {font-weight:normal; color:[[ColorPalette::PrimaryPale]];}
.tabSelected{color:[[ColorPalette::PrimaryDark]];
background:[[ColorPalette::TertiaryPale]];
border-left:1px solid [[ColorPalette::TertiaryLight]];
border-top:1px solid [[ColorPalette::TertiaryLight]];
border-right:1px solid [[ColorPalette::TertiaryLight]];
}
.tabUnselected {color:[[ColorPalette::Background]]; background:[[ColorPalette::TertiaryMid]];}
.tabContents {color:[[ColorPalette::PrimaryDark]]; background:[[ColorPalette::TertiaryPale]]; border:1px solid [[ColorPalette::TertiaryLight]];}
.tabContents .button {border:0;}
#sidebar {}
#sidebarOptions input {border:1px solid [[ColorPalette::PrimaryMid]];}
#sidebarOptions .sliderPanel {background:[[ColorPalette::PrimaryPale]];}
#sidebarOptions .sliderPanel a {border:none;color:[[ColorPalette::PrimaryMid]];}
#sidebarOptions .sliderPanel a:hover {color:[[ColorPalette::Background]]; background:[[ColorPalette::PrimaryMid]];}
#sidebarOptions .sliderPanel a:active {color:[[ColorPalette::PrimaryMid]]; background:[[ColorPalette::Background]];}
.wizard {background:[[ColorPalette::PrimaryPale]]; border:1px solid [[ColorPalette::PrimaryMid]];}
.wizard h1 {color:[[ColorPalette::PrimaryDark]]; border:none;}
.wizard h2 {color:[[ColorPalette::Foreground]]; border:none;}
.wizardStep {background:[[ColorPalette::Background]]; color:[[ColorPalette::Foreground]];
border:1px solid [[ColorPalette::PrimaryMid]];}
.wizardStep.wizardStepDone {background::[[ColorPalette::TertiaryLight]];}
.wizardFooter {background:[[ColorPalette::PrimaryPale]];}
.wizardFooter .status {background:[[ColorPalette::PrimaryDark]]; color:[[ColorPalette::Background]];}
.wizard .button {color:[[ColorPalette::Foreground]]; background:[[ColorPalette::SecondaryLight]]; border: 1px solid;
border-color:[[ColorPalette::SecondaryPale]] [[ColorPalette::SecondaryDark]] [[ColorPalette::SecondaryDark]] [[ColorPalette::SecondaryPale]];}
.wizard .button:hover {color:[[ColorPalette::Foreground]]; background:[[ColorPalette::Background]];}
.wizard .button:active {color:[[ColorPalette::Background]]; background:[[ColorPalette::Foreground]]; border: 1px solid;
border-color:[[ColorPalette::PrimaryDark]] [[ColorPalette::PrimaryPale]] [[ColorPalette::PrimaryPale]] [[ColorPalette::PrimaryDark]];}
#messageArea {border:1px solid [[ColorPalette::SecondaryMid]]; background:[[ColorPalette::SecondaryLight]]; color:[[ColorPalette::Foreground]];}
#messageArea .button {color:[[ColorPalette::PrimaryMid]]; background:[[ColorPalette::SecondaryPale]]; border:none;}
.popupTiddler {background:[[ColorPalette::TertiaryPale]]; border:2px solid [[ColorPalette::TertiaryMid]];}
.popup {background:[[ColorPalette::TertiaryPale]]; color:[[ColorPalette::TertiaryDark]]; border-left:1px solid [[ColorPalette::TertiaryMid]]; border-top:1px solid [[ColorPalette::TertiaryMid]]; border-right:2px solid [[ColorPalette::TertiaryDark]]; border-bottom:2px solid [[ColorPalette::TertiaryDark]];}
.popup hr {color:[[ColorPalette::PrimaryDark]]; background:[[ColorPalette::PrimaryDark]]; border-bottom:1px;}
.popup li.disabled {color:[[ColorPalette::TertiaryMid]];}
.popup li a, .popup li a:visited {color:[[ColorPalette::Foreground]]; border: none;}
.popup li a:hover {background:[[ColorPalette::SecondaryLight]]; color:[[ColorPalette::Foreground]]; border: none;}
.popup li a:active {background:[[ColorPalette::SecondaryPale]]; color:[[ColorPalette::Foreground]]; border: none;}
.popupHighlight {background:[[ColorPalette::Background]]; color:[[ColorPalette::Foreground]];}
.listBreak div {border-bottom:1px solid [[ColorPalette::TertiaryDark]];}
.tiddler .defaultCommand {font-weight:bold;}
.shadow .title {color:[[ColorPalette::TertiaryDark]];}
.title {color:[[ColorPalette::SecondaryDark]];}
.subtitle {color:[[ColorPalette::TertiaryDark]];}
.toolbar {color:[[ColorPalette::PrimaryMid]];}
.toolbar a {color:[[ColorPalette::TertiaryLight]];}
.selected .toolbar a {color:[[ColorPalette::TertiaryMid]];}
.selected .toolbar a:hover {color:[[ColorPalette::Foreground]];}
.tagging, .tagged {border:1px solid [[ColorPalette::TertiaryPale]]; background-color:[[ColorPalette::TertiaryPale]];}
.selected .tagging, .selected .tagged {background-color:[[ColorPalette::TertiaryLight]]; border:1px solid [[ColorPalette::TertiaryMid]];}
.tagging .listTitle, .tagged .listTitle {color:[[ColorPalette::PrimaryDark]];}
.tagging .button, .tagged .button {border:none;}
.footer {color:[[ColorPalette::TertiaryLight]];}
.selected .footer {color:[[ColorPalette::TertiaryMid]];}
.sparkline {background:[[ColorPalette::PrimaryPale]]; border:0;}
.sparktick {background:[[ColorPalette::PrimaryDark]];}
.error, .errorButton {color:[[ColorPalette::Foreground]]; background:[[ColorPalette::Error]];}
.warning {color:[[ColorPalette::Foreground]]; background:[[ColorPalette::SecondaryPale]];}
.lowlight {background:[[ColorPalette::TertiaryLight]];}
.zoomer {background:none; color:[[ColorPalette::TertiaryMid]]; border:3px solid [[ColorPalette::TertiaryMid]];}
.imageLink, #displayArea .imageLink {background:transparent;}
.annotation {background:[[ColorPalette::SecondaryLight]]; color:[[ColorPalette::Foreground]]; border:2px solid [[ColorPalette::SecondaryMid]];}
.viewer .listTitle {list-style-type:none; margin-left:-2em;}
.viewer .button {border:1px solid [[ColorPalette::SecondaryMid]];}
.viewer blockquote {border-left:3px solid [[ColorPalette::TertiaryDark]];}
table {border:2px solid [[ColorPalette::TertiaryDark]];}
th, thead td {background:[[ColorPalette::SecondaryMid]]; border:1px solid [[ColorPalette::TertiaryDark]]; color:[[ColorPalette::Background]];}
td, tr {border:1px solid [[ColorPalette::TertiaryDark]];}
.viewer pre {border:1px solid [[ColorPalette::SecondaryLight]]; background:[[ColorPalette::SecondaryPale]];}
.viewer code {color:[[ColorPalette::SecondaryDark]];}
.viewer hr {border:0; border-top:dashed 1px [[ColorPalette::TertiaryDark]]; color:[[ColorPalette::TertiaryDark]];}
.highlight, .marked {background:[[ColorPalette::SecondaryLight]];}
.editor input {border:1px solid [[ColorPalette::PrimaryMid]];}
.editor textarea {border:1px solid [[ColorPalette::PrimaryMid]]; width:100%;}
.editorFooter {color:[[ColorPalette::TertiaryMid]];}
#backstageArea {background:[[ColorPalette::Foreground]]; color:[[ColorPalette::TertiaryMid]];}
#backstageArea a {background:[[ColorPalette::Foreground]]; color:[[ColorPalette::Background]]; border:none;}
#backstageArea a:hover {background:[[ColorPalette::SecondaryLight]]; color:[[ColorPalette::Foreground]]; }
#backstageArea a.backstageSelTab {background:[[ColorPalette::Background]]; color:[[ColorPalette::Foreground]];}
#backstageButton a {background:none; color:[[ColorPalette::Background]]; border:none;}
#backstageButton a:hover {background:[[ColorPalette::Foreground]]; color:[[ColorPalette::Background]]; border:none;}
#backstagePanel {background:[[ColorPalette::Background]]; border-color: [[ColorPalette::Background]] [[ColorPalette::TertiaryDark]] [[ColorPalette::TertiaryDark]] [[ColorPalette::TertiaryDark]];}
.backstagePanelFooter .button {border:none; color:[[ColorPalette::Background]];}
.backstagePanelFooter .button:hover {color:[[ColorPalette::Foreground]];}
#backstageCloak {background:[[ColorPalette::Foreground]]; opacity:0.6; filter:'alpha(opacity:60)';}
/*}}}*/
/*{{{*/
* html .tiddler {height:1%;}
body {font-size:.75em; font-family:arial,helvetica; margin:0; padding:0;}
h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {font-weight:bold; text-decoration:none;}
h1,h2,h3 {padding-bottom:1px; margin-top:1.2em;margin-bottom:0.3em;}
h4,h5,h6 {margin-top:1em;}
h1 {font-size:1.35em;}
h2 {font-size:1.25em;}
h3 {font-size:1.1em;}
h4 {font-size:1em;}
h5 {font-size:.9em;}
hr {height:1px;}
a {text-decoration:none;}
dt {font-weight:bold;}
ol {list-style-type:decimal;}
ol ol {list-style-type:lower-alpha;}
ol ol ol {list-style-type:lower-roman;}
ol ol ol ol {list-style-type:decimal;}
ol ol ol ol ol {list-style-type:lower-alpha;}
ol ol ol ol ol ol {list-style-type:lower-roman;}
ol ol ol ol ol ol ol {list-style-type:decimal;}
.txtOptionInput {width:11em;}
#contentWrapper .chkOptionInput {border:0;}
.externalLink {text-decoration:underline;}
.indent {margin-left:3em;}
.outdent {margin-left:3em; text-indent:-3em;}
code.escaped {white-space:nowrap;}
.tiddlyLinkExisting {font-weight:bold;}
.tiddlyLinkNonExisting {font-style:italic;}
/* the 'a' is required for IE, otherwise it renders the whole tiddler in bold */
a.tiddlyLinkNonExisting.shadow {font-weight:bold;}
#mainMenu .tiddlyLinkExisting,
#mainMenu .tiddlyLinkNonExisting,
#sidebarTabs .tiddlyLinkNonExisting {font-weight:normal; font-style:normal;}
#sidebarTabs .tiddlyLinkExisting {font-weight:bold; font-style:normal;}
.header {position:relative;}
.header a:hover {background:transparent;}
.headerShadow {position:relative; padding:4.5em 0em 1em 1em; left:-1px; top:-1px;}
.headerForeground {position:absolute; padding:4.5em 0em 1em 1em; left:0px; top:0px;}
.siteTitle {font-size:3em;}
.siteSubtitle {font-size:1.2em;}
#mainMenu {position:absolute; left:0; width:10em; text-align:right; line-height:1.6em; padding:1.5em 0.5em 0.5em 0.5em; font-size:1.1em;}
#sidebar {position:absolute; right:3px; width:16em; font-size:.9em;}
#sidebarOptions {padding-top:0.3em;}
#sidebarOptions a {margin:0em 0.2em; padding:0.2em 0.3em; display:block;}
#sidebarOptions input {margin:0.4em 0.5em;}
#sidebarOptions .sliderPanel {margin-left:1em; padding:0.5em; font-size:.85em;}
#sidebarOptions .sliderPanel a {font-weight:bold; display:inline; padding:0;}
#sidebarOptions .sliderPanel input {margin:0 0 .3em 0;}
#sidebarTabs .tabContents {width:15em; overflow:hidden;}
.wizard {padding:0.1em 1em 0em 2em;}
.wizard h1 {font-size:2em; font-weight:bold; background:none; padding:0em 0em 0em 0em; margin:0.4em 0em 0.2em 0em;}
.wizard h2 {font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold; background:none; padding:0em 0em 0em 0em; margin:0.4em 0em 0.2em 0em;}
.wizardStep {padding:1em 1em 1em 1em;}
.wizard .button {margin:0.5em 0em 0em 0em; font-size:1.2em;}
.wizardFooter {padding:0.8em 0.4em 0.8em 0em;}
.wizardFooter .status {padding:0em 0.4em 0em 0.4em; margin-left:1em;}
.wizard .button {padding:0.1em 0.2em 0.1em 0.2em;}
#messageArea {position:absolute; top:2em; right:0em; margin:0.5em; padding:0.5em; z-index:200;}
*[id='messageArea'] {position:fixed !important; z-index:200;}
.messageToolbar {display:block; text-align:right; padding:0.2em 0.2em 0.2em 0.2em;}
#messageArea a {text-decoration:underline;}
.tiddlerPopupButton {padding:0.2em 0.2em 0.2em 0.2em;}
.popupTiddler {position: absolute; z-index:300; padding:1em 1em 1em 1em; margin:0;}
.popup {position:absolute; z-index:300; font-size:.9em; padding:0; list-style:none; margin:0;}
.popup .popupMessage {padding:0.4em;}
.popup hr {display:block; height:1px; width:auto; padding:0; margin:0.2em 0em;}
.popup li.disabled {padding:0.4em;}
.popup li a {display:block; padding:0.4em; font-weight:normal; cursor:pointer;}
.listBreak {font-size:1px; line-height:1px;}
.listBreak div {margin:2px 0;}
.tabset {padding:1em 0em 0em 0.5em;}
.tab {margin:0em 0em 0em 0.25em; padding:2px;}
.tabContents {padding:0.5em;}
.tabContents ul, .tabContents ol {margin:0; padding:0;}
.txtMainTab .tabContents li {list-style:none;}
.tabContents li.listLink { margin-left:.75em;}
#contentWrapper {display:block;}
#splashScreen {display:none;}
#displayArea {margin:1em 17em 0em 14em;}
.toolbar {text-align:right; font-size:.9em;}
.tiddler {padding:1em 1em 0em 1em;}
.missing .viewer,.missing .title {font-style:italic;}
.title {font-size:1.6em; font-weight:bold;}
.missing .subtitle {display:none;}
.subtitle {font-size:1.1em;}
.tiddler .button {padding:0.2em 0.4em;}
.tagging {margin:0.5em 0.5em 0.5em 0; float:left; display:none;}
.isTag .tagging {display:block;}
.tagged {margin:0.5em; float:right;}
.tagging, .tagged {font-size:0.9em; padding:0.25em;}
.tagging ul, .tagged ul {list-style:none; margin:0.25em; padding:0;}
.tagClear {clear:both;}
.footer {font-size:.9em;}
.footer li {display:inline;}
.annotation {padding:0.5em; margin:0.5em;}
* html .viewer pre {width:99%; padding:0 0 1em 0;}
.viewer {line-height:1.4em; padding-top:0.5em;}
.viewer .button {margin:0em 0.25em; padding:0em 0.25em;}
.viewer blockquote {line-height:1.5em; padding-left:0.8em;margin-left:2.5em;}
.viewer ul, .viewer ol {margin-left:0.5em; padding-left:1.5em;}
table {border-collapse:collapse; margin:0.8em 1.0em;}
.viewer th, .viewer td, .viewer tr,.viewer caption {padding:3px;}
table.listView {font-size:0.85em; margin:0.8em 1.0em;}
table.listView th, table.listView td, table.listView tr {padding:0px 3px 0px 3px;}
.viewer pre {padding:0.5em; margin-left:0.5em; font-size:1.2em; line-height:1.4em; overflow:auto;}
.viewer code {font-size:1.2em; line-height:1.4em;}
.editor {font-size:1.1em;}
.editor input, .editor textarea {display:block; width:100%; font:inherit;}
.editorFooter {padding:0.25em 0em; font-size:.9em;}
.editorFooter .button {padding-top:0px; padding-bottom:0px;}
.fieldsetFix {border:0; padding:0; margin:1px 0px 1px 0px;}
.sparkline {line-height:1em;}
.sparktick {outline:0;}
.zoomer {font-size:1.1em; position:absolute; overflow:hidden;}
.zoomer div {padding:1em;}
* html #backstage {width:99%;}
* html #backstageArea {width:99%;}
#backstageArea {display:none; position:relative; overflow: hidden; z-index:150; padding:0.3em 0.5em 0.3em 0.5em;}
#backstageToolbar {position:relative;}
#backstageArea a {font-weight:bold; margin-left:0.5em; padding:0.3em 0.5em 0.3em 0.5em;}
#backstageButton {display:none; position:absolute; z-index:175; top:0em; right:0em;}
#backstageButton a {padding:0.1em 0.4em 0.1em 0.4em; margin:0.1em 0.1em 0.1em 0.1em;}
#backstage {position:relative; width:100%; z-index:50;}
#backstagePanel {display:none; z-index:100; position:absolute; margin:0em 3em 0em 3em; padding:1em 1em 1em 1em;}
.backstagePanelFooter {padding-top:0.2em; float:right;}
.backstagePanelFooter a {padding:0.2em 0.4em 0.2em 0.4em;}
#backstageCloak {display:none; z-index:50; position:absolute; width:100%; height:100px;}
.whenBackstage {display:none;}
.backstageVisible .whenBackstage {display:block;}
/*}}}*/
/***
StyleSheet for use when a translation requires any css style changes.
This StyleSheet can be used directly by languages such as Chinese, Japanese and Korean which use a logographic writing system and need larger font sizes.
***/
/*{{{*/
body {font-size:0.8em;}
#sidebarOptions {font-size:1.05em;}
#sidebarOptions a {font-style:normal;}
#sidebarOptions .sliderPanel {font-size:0.95em;}
.subtitle {font-size:0.8em;}
.viewer table.listView {font-size:0.95em;}
.htmlarea .toolbarHA table {border:1px solid ButtonFace; margin:0em 0em;}
/*}}}*/
/*{{{*/
@media print {
#mainMenu, #sidebar, #messageArea, .toolbar {display: none ! important;}
#displayArea {margin: 1em 1em 0em 1em;}
/* Fixes a feature in Firefox 1.5.0.2 where print preview displays the noscript content */
noscript {display:none;}
}
/*}}}*/
<!--{{{-->
<div class='header' macro='gradient vert [[ColorPalette::PrimaryLight]] [[ColorPalette::PrimaryMid]]'>
<div class='headerShadow'>
<span class='siteTitle' refresh='content' tiddler='SiteTitle'></span>
<span class='siteSubtitle' refresh='content' tiddler='SiteSubtitle'></span>
</div>
<div class='headerForeground'>
<span class='siteTitle' refresh='content' tiddler='SiteTitle'></span>
<span class='siteSubtitle' refresh='content' tiddler='SiteSubtitle'></span>
</div>
</div>
<div id='mainMenu' refresh='content' tiddler='MainMenu'></div>
<div id='sidebar'>
<div id='sidebarOptions' refresh='content' tiddler='SideBarOptions'></div>
<div id='sidebarTabs' refresh='content' force='true' tiddler='SideBarTabs'></div>
</div>
<div id='displayArea'>
<div id='messageArea'></div>
<div id='tiddlerDisplay'></div>
</div>
<!--}}}-->
<!--{{{-->
<div class='toolbar' macro='toolbar closeTiddler closeOthers +editTiddler > fields syncing permalink references jump'></div>
<div class='title' macro='view title'></div>
<div class='subtitle'><span macro='view modifier link'></span>, <span macro='view modified date'></span> (<span macro='message views.wikified.createdPrompt'></span> <span macro='view created date'></span>)</div>
<div class='tagging' macro='tagging'></div>
<div class='tagged' macro='tags'></div>
<div class='viewer' macro='view text wikified'></div>
<div class='tagClear'></div>
<!--}}}-->
<!--{{{-->
<div class='toolbar' macro='toolbar +saveTiddler -cancelTiddler deleteTiddler'></div>
<div class='title' macro='view title'></div>
<div class='editor' macro='edit title'></div>
<div macro='annotations'></div>
<div class='editor' macro='edit text'></div>
<div class='editor' macro='edit tags'></div><div class='editorFooter'><span macro='message views.editor.tagPrompt'></span><span macro='tagChooser'></span></div>
<!--}}}-->
To get started with this blank TiddlyWiki, you'll need to modify the following tiddlers:
* SiteTitle & SiteSubtitle: The title and subtitle of the site, as shown above (after saving, they will also appear in the browser title bar)
* MainMenu: The menu (usually on the left)
* DefaultTiddlers: Contains the names of the tiddlers that you want to appear when the TiddlyWiki is opened
You'll also need to enter your username for signing your edits: <<option txtUserName>>
These InterfaceOptions for customising TiddlyWiki are saved in your browser
Your username for signing your edits. Write it as a WikiWord (eg JoeBloggs)
<<option txtUserName>>
<<option chkSaveBackups>> SaveBackups
<<option chkAutoSave>> AutoSave
<<option chkRegExpSearch>> RegExpSearch
<<option chkCaseSensitiveSearch>> CaseSensitiveSearch
<<option chkAnimate>> EnableAnimations
----
Also see AdvancedOptions
Background: #000
Foreground: #eee
PrimaryPale: #8cf
PrimaryLight: #18f
PrimaryMid: #04b
PrimaryDark: #014
SecondaryPale: #ffc
SecondaryLight: #fe8
SecondaryMid: #db4
SecondaryDark: #841
TertiaryPale: #eee
TertiaryLight: #ddd
TertiaryMid: #999
TertiaryDark: #222
DarkRed: #800
MidRed: #a00
LightRed: #f00
Error: #f88
[[Welcome]]
[[News]]
[[Kawasaki Ninja 650R]]
<!--{{{-->
<div class='toolbar' macro='toolbar +saveTiddler -cancelTiddler deleteTiddler'></div>
<div class='title' macro='view title'></div>
<div class='editor' macro='edit title'></div>
<div macro='annotations'></div>
<div class='editor' macro='edit text'></div>
<div class='editor' macro='edit tags'></div><div class='editorFooter'><span macro='message views.editor.tagPrompt'></span><span macro='tagChooser'></span></div>
<!--}}}-->
For some time I've wanted a decent camera mount solution for my bike. I once purchased a solution for the gas tank, but it required the camera to view through the windscreen. This is a problem if I change to a darker windscreen. Also, it prohibited a good tuck position. I began wondering what other effective places a camera might be mounted. The idea struck me as I passed some "L" brackets -the kind used for mending 90 degree joints- at an OSH hardware store. I purchased one just to test my theory: the screw holes on the bracket looked to be the same distance apart as the screw holes on the front hugger.
Well, I was close. I was off by 1/10th of an inch. Very close, but a large enough difference to prohibit a screw. I had two options at this point:
*Lengthen the top hole to accommodate the distance and then torque the bracket under heat to accommodate required angle for a level camera mount... or...
*Rotate the entire bracket and weld an extension to reach the top hole.
I opted for the latter option. I used a corner bracket, of thinner gauge metal, as the extension piece.
First I had to find the appropriate angle to cut the extension for an easier weld. After a test ride to ensure the proper angle, I took measurements of the lengths between the holes, calculated an inverse cosine from the three lengths to find the angle to cut.
Using a MIG, I welded the two pieces together, and then painted the whole thing black (for posterity) and checked its fit, which was perfect. I now have to check that the angle is correct for the camera with another test ride. I'll try it later.
The entire thing is mounted using M6 socket cap bolts. The bottom bolt is stock for the hugger.
Now for some pictures!
[img[The Prototype, Mounted|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/front_camera_mount/001.jpg]] [img[He Welded, Poorly|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/front_camera_mount/002.jpg]]
[img[The Camera, Mounted|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/front_camera_mount/003.jpg]] [img[M6 Bolt with a Wing Nut, 2 Washers and the Stock Grommet from the Hugger|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/front_camera_mount/004.jpg]]
[img[Trigonometry STRIKES AGAIN!|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/front_camera_mount/005.jpg]]
For reference, I am including the distance I used to calculate this prototype.
This is the 2006 Kawasaki Ninja 650R.
[img[The only real Ninja 650R|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/ninja_650r_06.jpg]]
The black 650R is the only //real// 650R because it's black. All other colors are just //pretending// to be a Ninja 650R when, in fact, they are not. They are something else entirely. Here are some reasons why you might have purchased another color:
* You looked at the black Ninja and decided that perhaps black was too much for you and decided on silver.
* You were sitting on the black one and the cops arrested you for "looking too fast." As a lenient fine, you were restricted to purchasing silver one.
* You came in looking for a black one, found out that all the real men had them and were forced to settle on the silver.
* You also discovered that Kawasaki made an equal number of Ninja 650Rs per real men and this meant that you were, in fact, //not// a real man.
* You, actually //did// purchase a black one but upon riding home, you discovered that the dealer had painted a silver. when asked about it the dealer proclaimed: "we didn't want to hurt your feelings."
* You, unfortunately, were forced to purchase the ever-more-uncool-even-more-so-than-the-silver-one models. We refer to them as red and blue.
//much love Ninja 650R community!//
----
/***
|''Name:''|LegacyStrikeThroughPlugin|
|''Description:''|Support for legacy (pre 2.1) strike through formatting|
|''Version:''|1.0.2|
|''Date:''|Jul 21, 2006|
|''Source:''|http://www.tiddlywiki.com/#LegacyStrikeThroughPlugin|
|''Author:''|MartinBudden (mjbudden (at) gmail (dot) com)|
|''License:''|[[BSD open source license]]|
|''CoreVersion:''|2.1.0|
***/
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[[Kawasaki Ninja 650R]]
!!!How To
[[Suburban Machinery Bar Installation]]
[[Sub-Throttle Plate Removal]]
!!!Internal
[[Front Camera Mount]]
[[Review: AMA MotoGP]]
[[Related Links]]
!!!External
[[Kawasaki|http://www.kawasaki.com/Home/Home.aspx]]
[[Ninja650.com|http://www.ninja650.com]]
[[RiderForums|http://www.riderforums.com]]
[[AMA|http://www.amadirectlink.com/]]
[[Motorcycle.com|http://www.motorcycle.com]]
!!!Admin Resources
[[Web Color Chart for changing this page|http://www.edoceo.com/utilis/html-color-chart.php]]
!2007-07-29
Today I stripped my bike naked to clean some things. I didn't have my real camera(s) with me, so I used my cell phone.
[img[My Naked Bike|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/070729/naked.jpg]]
I got to thinking that I might want to give this thing a makeover. Near the end of the year, the rainy season starts and I was thinking I should disassemble and get my frame powder-coated black. This would be my first step in a multi-phase process.
!2007-07-28
I amended the [[Sub-Throttle Plate Removal]] instructions to include the PAIR valve plugging.
also...
What's a [[PAIR Valve]]?
!2007-07-27
I've completed the [[Sub-Throttle Plate Removal]] instructions.
!2007-07-23
I went to the AMA ~MotoGP championships yesterday. You can read about it in my [[impromptu review|Review: AMA MotoGP]]
I now have a video clip up. Watch it 32 times for the real deal.
[[MotoGP Clip (ActiveX streaming)|http://www.fortycaliber.org/moto_gp_01.htm]]
!2007-07-18
I've completed [[Suburban Machinery Bar Installation, Part 3]]
I've been getting frantic ~PMs from people. I figure //someone// must save these plebians from themselves. I also figured I could do it. So, I did it.
Please to enjoy.
!2007-06-21
I've completed the camera mount; welded and painted. I haven't tested the completed prototype, yet. It looks straight, but I won't know for sure until I get it on the road.
Read more about the [[Front Camera Mount]].
!2007-06-20
I'm currently working on a video camera mounting solution. I have a video of my first test which I will link. After some mild welding and some paint and more riding tests, I hope to have a completed product soon. I will also be posting items necessary for completion and a ballpark cost for everything. Tonight I'm making some angle measurements and shock-absorption considerations.
[[Camera Mount Test 1 (ActiveX streaming)|http://www.fortycaliber.org/camera_test_ride_01.htm]]
[[Camera Mount Test 1 (direct download)|http://www.fortycaliber.org/video/camera_test_ride_01.wmv]]
!2007-06-15
I added [[Suburban Machinery Bar Installation, Part 2]]. I will add part 3 soon. Hey, I have to build suspense somehow... right?
!2007-06-13
I received my Suburban Machinery Bars today. I installed them at once. I took pictures and now have a //how-to// on how to do it. Included with it is how to bleed the brakes and flip the banjo bolt.
Read it here: [[Suburban Machinery Bar Installation]]
!2007-06-08
I changed the color scheme some more. The code is hard to work through when changing colors, so I may have missed some. If I did and some yellow or blue colors are seen, let me know. I'll try to change it. The header above (the blue one, with the title) is still in the process. I'm going to be importing some new code in to change the style altogether and it includes some changes to the header.
!2007-06-07
I've edited the colors a bit but it's a process.
!2007-06-06
This site re-opens.
I have nothing... and I mean //nothing// from the old site. I cannot find a back-up //anywhere.// Until then, I will have to rebuild from scratch. The site's colors suck and I'm working on that. I am also working on getting //some// content back up. I hope to incorporate how-to/DIY guides, pictures of my bike and others' bikes, information and news (when I find or care to find it) about Kawasaki, the Ninja 650R or any interesting (perhaps not even related) articles I find, and a slew of other stuff I haven't thought of yet.
----
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The PAIR valve is an emissions-related system found on automotive vehicles. It's function is to deliver air to the exhaust stream during a pre-set engine speed range. the function of the air in the exhaust stream is to burn off any excess, unspent fuel (hydrocarbons) that may have leaked out with the exhaust cycle. This mixture eventually joins with the Catalytic Converter and the hydrocarbons are catalyzed (chemically reacted) into normal exhaust by-products.
PAIR stands for ''P''ulsed ''A''ir ''I''nduction ''R''eed. On most vehicles it is an actual "reed" of sorts. The "reed" is usually a piece of spring steel that allows air only one way through the system. The opening and closing of the valve is in time with the exhaust timing due to a phenomenon known as the //Venturi Effect//: when the exhaust passes the opening, it creates a lower pressure, opening the valve. When the pressure is equal to or greater than atmospheric pressure, the valves closes. This causes the valve to open and close rapidly and can cause a small "hum" sound from the intake.
On the Ninja 650R for at least the 2006 and 2007 models, it is a plastic box at the front of the motorcycle, forward of the air box, under the fuel tank. It has an inlet port and an outlet port and a plug for 2 wires.
Inside this box is a small piston that is actuated during "cruising speeds" //(citation needed)// and is cycled, in time, with the exhaust timing, receiving the timing signal from the PCM (Power Control module). The system returns no signal to the computer and only returns an error when the circuit is left open.
[img[PAIR valve|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/019.JPG]]
The PAIR valve system
Most DIY owners will plug this system in one way or another. Plugging it has no adverse affect on performance and leaving it open affords no advantages. It is simply an emissions reduction part.
This system is completely useless in the event that the original muffler/catalytic converter is removed. Most slip-on exhaust muffler systems do not come with a catalytic converter and without a catalytic converter there is no hydrocarbon catalyzation and the PAIR valve becomes useless. Also, when no catalytic conveter is present, the existing hydrocarbons, when mixed with the PAIR stream, cause spontaneous combustion inside the muffler. This results in backfires and, at times, flames. plugging the PAIR valve prevents air from entering the stream and thus prevents combustion due to a lack of oxygen.
It has also been reported that leaving the PAIR valve open alters and causes inaccurate dynomometer test //(citation needed)//.
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[[$10.00 Service Manual Download|http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/1122429]]
Yesterday (July 22, 2007) I attended the final day of the AMA ~MotoGP Championships. This is actually the third annual Red Bull ~MotoGP Championships hosted at Mazda Speedway at Laguna Seca.
The weather was mild with temperatures in the low to mid 80's with a light breeze from the west.
Arriving at Laguna Seca involved a ride with 3 friends from Livermore, CA to Marina, CA (The actual town that Laguna Seca is in.) It was a pleasant morning ride via I-680 to ~US-101 to ~CA-156 and finally to the historic Pacific Coast Highway (~CA-1) which dumps you into Marina. As we approached the town, more and more riders appeared on the road until the highway was a sea of motorcycles with the occasional car, trapped and horrified. Along the PCH, The Highway Patrol never missed a chance to snag a motorcycle rider or twelve. Of course, cagers were doing the same speed as us... but I suppose they have //different// laws. Once we approached the peaceful beach town signs directed us towards a back gate of the now-defunct Fort Ord, through the Explosives Annex. All Motorcycle riders had a special entrance, as did RV's and regular drivers into other parts of the track. Along the way, volunteer workers, Park Rangers, and Sheriff deputies guided the way (BTW, it was the //only// road in and out.) At the end was a mass of confusion and bikes that it's own sense of organization. We pulled over and purchased our tickets. I was now $65.00 closer to sunburn, loud bikes, women who get paid to hold signs and act like visual white noise.
Inside was a scene like no other: Motorcycles from all walks of life and all across the //world// were here. Plates reflecting riders from US, Canada, Italy, Brazil, and other places could be seen, dispersed among the majority of California riders. Workers ushered us along a gravel road into a large dirt parking lot situated on a series of low, rolling hills. Here's some pictures of that scene:
[img["All that Goodness"|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/moto_gp_07/011.jpg]] [img["All that Goodness"|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/moto_gp_07/012.jpg]]
//Note: that when we returned later that day, there were roughly twice as many in that particular area.//
Riding in dirt with these bikes wasn't fun but it was pretty easy. Some people couldn't cope and stalled out or just plain fell over.
We parked, locked up, and moved towards the admission area, looking at all of the other motorcycles as we went. We walked up and over a couple of bridges until we inside the track. We were simply "General Admission" and weren't privy to the grandstand, the starting grid, and the center paddock area. Still, we toured the sponsor areas including Ducati Island. Ducati Island, so named, because Ducati occupied, in some fashion, all aspects of this little island that sat on a small lake between the "Andretti Turn" and turn #4 on the outside of the track area. There were so many people that it was hard to get some pictures. However, if you've seen one Ducati, well, it's a Ducati. I did manage to get this picture:
[img[Sorry Ducati, You Tiger Now!|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/moto_gp_07/010.jpg]]
Ducati "Tiger", complete with tail.
The next stop we made was through the Kawasaki Tent. There were a bunch of custom bikes by "Rogue Customs," one of which had a 400mm wide rear tire.
[img[ |http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/moto_gp_07/006.jpg]] [img[ |http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/moto_gp_07/007.jpg]]
[img[ |http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/moto_gp_07/008.jpg]]
And this stunt bike owned by Kane Friesen. For those who dont' know who he is, Kane Friesen is a stunt rider credited with the "World's Fastest Stoppie." He executed a rolling stoppie at 137 mph, destroying the previous record of 98 mph. He is sponsored by Kawasaki as well as others.
[img[ |http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/moto_gp_07/009.jpg]] [img[KaneOne.com|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/moto_gp_07/kane_friesen_01.jpg]]
Next, we stopped by the "Yamaha Marketplace" where the Yamaha team was signing autographs. I didn't care, so I left two of my companions there (They ride an R-1 and R-6) to get their "wing-dang-doodle's" signed. Yamaha also had a demo ride area for kids. There were some little ones riding 50cc and 90cc dirt bikes around a small track.
Around the corner was the BMW tent and the Triumph Tent. I ignored the BMW tent and stopped into the Triumph Tent. I had a chance to sit on the "Daytona-675." This bike has a reputation of being to small, though I found it's size to be more than adequate and I'm 6'1". I didn't have a chance to photograph it, as there were too many people around it and trying to sit on it and the main event was close to starting. However, here is a stock photo from [[Triumph's Web Site|http://www.triumph.co.uk/usa/]].
[img[Triumph Daytona 675|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/moto_gp_07/daytona_675.jpg]]
As the Main Event got closer, we had to start making our way across the Dunlop Bridge. We situated ourselves between turns 3 and 4. Some sort of prayer was made over the loudspeaker followed by the national anthem. At the "Land of the Free" part, 2 F-18 Hornet IIs flew over head at a very low altitude... I mean //low.// These things were easily no more than 25 meters off of the deck and //loud.// They were silent approaching my aural threshold plane, at which point the 200+ dB engines roared their way over the track.
The race started at 2:00pm. for 32 laps, the bikes raced their way through the 2.2 mile course, followed, for two laps, by a BMW 6-series "Safety Car" which I wish I could have been driving. He, of course, couldn't keep up with the 160+ mph speeds achieved by the $1 million bikes. They roared by us, approaching turn 4 leaning no more than 30 degrees off of the track. The riders almost seem to defy physics through those turns. They roared by use 31 more times and each time I admired the strict simplicity of each bike. Nothing unnecessary was on the bike. 31 more times I admired them, noting the position of each rider, how they shifted in preparation for each turn, and how they adjusted their knees for the angle and velocity of each bike, like they were a part of the bike. I noticed this for 31 more times.
And for those who have never seen a professional race event are missing out on seeing the race from one point in the same fashion for several minutes to several hours. Because the race moved so fast, given the speed of the bikes, it was impossible, really, to move between vantage points. So the race was the same thing over and over and over again. 32 times, to be exact.
In addition, I achieved 1st degree burns on my face, the beginnings of a 2nd degree burn on my nose, a fire ant stung me, and I lost $65.00 watching the same thing 32 times. Would I say attending these things is worth the money. No. Would I say that attending these things would be worth the money with a better pass? Probably. A better pass gets you paddock access, free gear, and grandstand seating. I was simply a $65.00 slob on the ground. My ride home was pretty miserable too. After riding in the morning, walking around all day, and then riding home, through traffic on ~CA-156, and then holding urine back for 70+ miles while doing so, I felt drained by 4:30pm. I am still applying copious amounts of aloe on my face and ears.
Here's another picture I took while entering the track area:
[img[What is that...?|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/moto_gp_07/013.jpg]]
There were two things I noticed after looking at this picture. There are two notably interesting objects in the foregorund:
[img[NINJA SIGHTING!|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/moto_gp_07/014.jpg]] [img[NINJA SIGHTING!|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/moto_gp_07/015.jpg]]
Later, while waiting for two of my companions, I found four more. One of which was parked right behind me.
|[img[NINJA SIGHTING!|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/moto_gp_07/003.jpg]]|[img[NINJA SIGHTING!|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/moto_gp_07/001.jpg]]|
| Sighting 1 | Sighting 2 |
|[img[NINJA SIGHTING!|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/moto_gp_07/002.jpg]]|[img[NINJA SIGHTING!|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/moto_gp_07/004.jpg]]|
| Sighting 3 | "~SanJoseninja" from [[Ninja650.com|http://www.ninja650.com]] |
|[img[Clip-Ons|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/moto_gp_07/005.jpg]]| |
Sighting 3 had Canadian plates and, judging on the degree of filth on it, looked as if it had come FROM Canada, directly.
Sighting 4 had some interesting clip-on handlebars.
Just a reminder. Be wary of your surroundings and where you park your bike. I found this unfortunate situation and photographed it for posterity. I never located the owner, but I did, with some help, pick it back up and place a beer can under the kickstand.
[img[An R6, Fallen from Grace|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/moto_gp_07/016.jpg]]
I also have some video, and once I get it re-authored, I'll show one clip and then you can watch it 31 more times to experience what I experienced. Also, you can place a UV lamp next to your face and, if you live in the south-west US area, place a fire ant on your leg.
//Gettin' it on with some sexy twins//
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I love the way this bike sounds. I liked it even more when I added my Two Brothers slip-on. Now I've taken it one step further.
There are all sorts of little things that you can do to this bike. You may do them to further personalize it; you may do them to simply have a reason to wrench on the thing; you may even just do things just so you can have a long list of "Mods" in user/owner forums. most people do things to their bike because they can or might add an extra bit of "oomph" or an extra decibel to it's already obnoxiously loud output.
Today, I did these things for two reasons: responsiveness and sound.
Removing the sub-throttle plates improves responsiveness and removing the air box baffles improves (or changes) the sound of the bike.
Let's get to it. First, remove the seat and remove the toolkit. Now assess what we have in front of us:
[img[Nuts and Bolts|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/001.JPG]]
We need to remove the two nuts holding down the gas tank. For this, we need a 10mm socket wrench. We also need to remove the trim that sits below the gas tank. For this we need good-ole #2 philips.
[img[Tank Bolts|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/002.JPG]]
Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey; both bolts. It's best to put a rag or some such on the tank as socket wrenches, screws, nuts, bolts, and other nasties in Mr. Murphy's possession capable of scratching paint will scratch paint.
[img[Trim Screws|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/003.JPG]]
Unscrew the screws screwed into the screw holes on the trim.
[img[Pull and Pry|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/004.JPG]]
Now just pull back the trim from the bike. Do this slowly. The friction pins will pull out from their rubber shoes.
Here's a good time to pause for a moment and think about the next line of events. We are going to do a few things here that involve close quarters and fuel, specifically, gasoline.
There are two versions of the Ninja 650R. No, I'm not referring to color (because that would mean 4 versions, kids.) I mean the California version and everything else.
The California version of this bike has 3 rubber hoses dropping from the left side underneath the tank. One is blue striped, one is red striped, and on is not striped. These are part of the evaporative emission reclamation system required on California vehicles. It's job is two-fold: to reclaim lost gasoline through evaporation and to prevent said evaporation from harming the lungs of our tender children. Reference this photo:
[img[Hoses and Such|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/007.JPG]]
What does this mean for you? Well, these rubber hoses are notoriously difficult to remove and I, personally, just assume not mess with them. If you own a California model, you will need one of two things:
*A friend to hold the gas tank for up to 45 minutes (or more if you are bad with the screwy-nutty-bolty things
*An object to place said gas tank on for as long as you need it out of your way.
I opted for the second option. I have no friends (willing to hold a gas tank for that long.)
Also, it would probably be best to make sure there is minimal fuel in the tank anyways.
Back to the grind stone.
[img[That's it! 2 Bolts?|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/005.JPG]]
Now lift the tank up from the anchor point, now released, and pull the tank towards the rear of the bike. With your table (or whatever) next to the bike, lay the tank on it.
You may have trouble actually laying the bike on anything. It might currently be tethered by wires and hoses and such.
[img[Nuts and Bolts|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/006.JPG]]
The fuel delivery system has all the problems with that. Specifically the fuel line and the fuel wire harness.
[img[Retaining Clip|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/008.JPG]]
Pry or pull the red retaining clip from the fuel line.
[img[Fuel Line|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/009.JPG]]
Pull the fuel line from the fuel pump unit. It would be prudent to place a rag underneath the operation as there will be a small amount of fuel leakage.
[img[Wire Harness|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/011.JPG]]
Disconnect the wire harness for the fuel pump.
[img[Next Step|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/010.JPG]]
Now that the tank is aside, we can tackle our next phase: the air box.
The air box has 4 components: the lower, the upper, the filter caddy, and the PAIR valve inlet.
First we sill disconnect all of the tubes, hoses and wires.
[img[Wire for Unknown Sensor|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/012.JPG]]
Remove the wire plug for this sensor //(Citation needed)//.
[img[Hose for PAIR valve|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/013.JPG]]
Remove the hose from the PAIR Valve
[img[The PAIR valve|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/019.JPG]] [img[The Other Thing is Missing|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/020.JPG]]
Remove this thing from the hose beneath it. Also, this thing has a plug. Unplug this thing and set this thing aside.
[img[A Screw in Time, Saves Nine|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/014.JPG]]
Unscrew the nine, count 'em, nine screws from the air box. This detaches the upper for the lower. There are also 4 screws holding in a small thing with a hose.
[img[Air Filter|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/015.JPG]]
There is one screw holding the air filter caddy in place.
[img[Air Filter|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/016.JPG]]
Pull the filter out from the slot.
[img[Wire Routing|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/0018.JPG]]
Loosen a few of these things around the perimeter of the air box; it will help remove the upper.
[img[Upper|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/021.JPG]]
Lift the upper away from the lower.
[img[Inside the Air Box|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/022.JPG]]
We have no exposed the velocity stacks, the throttle bodies, and the air baffles.
[img[Throttle Bodies|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/023.JPG]]
These are the throttle bodies. On top of them are the velocity stacks. Inside you can see the sub throttle plates (We'll be removing these) and the main throttle plates beneath them.
The velocity stacks are actually connected to a plate. This plate holds down the lower with four socket cap bolts.
[img[Unbolt|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/024.JPG]]
Unbolt the throttle lower with a 5mm socket wrench.
[img[Lower|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/025.JPG]]
Lift the lower.
[img[No More Air Box|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/026.JPG]]
Now we have exposed the throttle bodies, linkage, and the top of the cylinder heads with the spark plugs.
[img[They'll get the Clamps... THE CLAMPS!|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/028.JPG]]
There are two ring clamps below the the velocity stack plate. They are held together with two screws.
[img[THE CLAMPS!|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/029.JPG]]
Using good-ole #2 Philips, unscrew the clamps... both of them. When Kawisaki put these on, they faced the clamps in the same direction. The clamp on the right side was more difficult to adjust. I flipped this one over so both screws face inside instead of to the right.
[img[Pull It! Pull It!|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/030.JPG]]
Pull the velocity stacks from the throttle bodies.
[img[I'm Almost Done Typing|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/031.JPG]] [img[Sub Throttle Plates|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/032.JPG]]
We can now access the sub-throttle plates more easily.
Notice in my pictures that the sub throttle plates are fully closed. I did this manually. You will want to too. Otherwise you might have issues.
[img[Unscrew the Screw...|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/033.JPG]]
#2 Philips... anyone... anyone.
[img[Plate Removal|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/034.JPG]]
Using human evolution, pull out the plate. Repeat this for both sides.
[img[Under the Lower|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/035.JPG]]
Underneath the lower are two notable features: the crank case ventilation hose and a clear tube. I don't own a service manual so my best guess is that in the even of too much oil splatter, this tube facilitates drainage.
[img[Inside the Upper|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/036.JPG]]
Inside the upper are two rubber tubes. These are referred to as "baffles," These baffles are responsible for two things: lowering intake noise and restricting air flow. The latter is simply due to the fact that they exist.
We want to remove them.
[img[Baffling, Isn't It?|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/037.JPG]]
Pressing as the handsome thumb in this picture is, push, wiggle, and wobble the baffle until it comes free. It takes some finagling, but it will eventually give in.
Now it's time to reassemble everything. This is done in reverse order. Once the air box is reassembled we will accomplish one more thing: Plugging the PAIR valve system.
[img[Where's Your Rubber?|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/040.jpg]] [img[It's Not the Size that Counts|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/042.jpg]]
To plug the system, I used these two items. They are nothing more that the rubber ends or "feet" that you might find on the end of a dowel rod or some such. I picked them up for like $0.30 each. One is 3/8 inch (yellow) and one is 1/2 inch (grey).
[img[Just Put it in the Hole|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/041.jpg]] [img[Just Put Tip... Please?|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/043.jpg]]
The 1/2 inch one fits in the hose as such and creates a nice seal. The 3/8 inch one fits nicely in the barbed inlet on top of the air box.
Now put the hose back on the inlet. Read more about the [[PAIR Valve]] here.
There is something to note when placing the fuel tank back on:
[img[Tank Mounting|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/038.JPG]] [img[Tank Mounting|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sub_throttle_plates/039.JPG]]
There are two rubber knobs near the front of the bike. They fit in the round openings under the tank. If you don't get it... look harder.
That's it. We're done. I noticed a definite gain in responsiveness and the bike is louder overall but the tone seems lower but I only test rode it. Tomorrow I will ride it for real to get a better idea of the changes made. Another notable improvement is the fact that when I turn the bike on and start it, it starts up with no hesitation (that would have otherwise existed due to the Power Commander III USB.)
The Suburban Machinery Bars are a great addition to this bike. They leverage our triple clamp design with a clip-on feel; a clip-on feel without lowering the forks.
Enough of all that... let's get to it.
Installing the SM Bars are almost as easy as any other bars to install only that it is also necessary to make some adjustments to the brake system.
[img[The Things We Will Need|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/052.jpg]]
Left to right, top to bottom: Brake bleeding kit, ~DOT-4 fluid, hairspray, canned air, a telephone to call a buddy, 10 mm socket, 12 mm socket, 5 mm hex wrench, 8-inch crescent wrench, super-glue, electrical tape, socket wrench, my favorite screwdriver (it ratchets), some rags (white diapers), a water soluble pen, a drafting scale (or ruler).
[img[The Bars, as Shipped|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/001.jpg]] [img[No More Making an 'L' with my Left Hand|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/002.jpg]]
These are the bars with their packaging. They come shipped with the sides labelled. How nice!
[img[Nut, Threaded, Welded, 1 Each|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/003.jpg]]
They also welded a threaded nut for the stock bar ends! these guys figured everything out!
[img[Before|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/004.jpg]]
This is my set-up before the SM bars. Honestly... I hate the Bike Master bars. We will be removing all of this soon.
[img[The Banjo Bolt|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/005.jpg]]
We will also be flipping this banjo bolt around so the line curves inwards. Why do they call it a banjo bolt, anyways? Let's get started...
[img[Loosen the Clutch Bolts|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/006.jpg]]
using the 5 mm hex wrench, loosen the two bolt holding the clutch on the bar. Do not remove it. Just loosen it.
[img[Slide the Clutch Away|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/007.jpg]]
Slide the clutch away giving you more room to work on the light switch housing.
[img[Loosen the Switch Housing|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/008.jpg]] [img[Remove the Housing|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/013.jpg]]
Unscrew the housing. Phillips no. 2. Righty-tighty, lefty... etc.
[img[Unbolt the Bar End|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/009.jpg]]
5 mm may not work here... it may actually be a 6 mm wrench. I seem to have replaced my bolts sometime earlier. Pick a wrench... any wrench.
[img[Icky Rust|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/010.jpg]]
Upon removing the bar end I found that the bars had some rust building and peeling the paint away. Yet another reason to avoid the Bike Master bars.
What is not pictured here is the left grip removal. Unfortunately this was a two handed job for me. I used canned air. Another option is to use ~WD-40. Yet another option is to use an air compressor (most peopl don't have these and I'm one of them.) I will attempt, now, to describe, as best I can, the process for both options:
__Canned Air: (can be adapted for air compressor.)__
*Remove the straw from the can of air.
*Place the straw in between the hand grip and the bar. Go no further than the mid point of the grip. You can insert the straw from either the bar end or the hilt end.
*Place the can nozzle on the straw.
*Squeeze the grip, compressing and sealing the grip around the straw.
*While injecting the air between the grip and the bar, twist and pull the grip from the bar. Try to do this as quick as possible. As the can sprays longer, the decompression cools the can lowering its efficiency. In short, it will stop spraying.
*The grip should come free.
__~WD-40:__
*Pull up the grip from the bar at the hilt. Spray a small amount of ~WD-40 in between.
*Twist the grip to spread the ~WD-40.
*Follow step one as needed.
*Repeat step two until free.
[img[Triple Clamp Bolts|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/011.jpg]]
Loosen the four bolts with a 10 mm socket. Once the bolts are loose enough...
[img[Hand Loosen Bolts|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/012.jpg]]
hand loosen them. It's best to keep wrenches and such things far far away from your fuel tank.
[img[Remove the Clutch|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/014.jpg]]
Now you may remove the clutch, completely, from the bar.
Continue on to [[Suburban Machinery Bar Installation, Part 2]]
First, let's take a look at where we are now:
[img[Almost There...|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/053.jpg]]
The left side assemblies and accessories have been removed.
At this point, we need to flip the banjo bolt and bleed the front brake lines. First we need to gather the tools for this job:
*a rag (or two)
*12 mm Socket (and the wrench)
*8 inch crescent wrench
*Brake bleeding kit
For those who have never bled a brake system before:
//[INSERT BRAKE BLEED KIT PICTURE HERE]//
This is a Brake Bleed Kit. It has 3 clear lines (like aquarium tubing,) a three-way line junction, the and bleed bottle.
Quickly I'll cover the operation of the brake bleeding. Two lines, one for each brake caliper, feed into one line that feeds into the bottle. When the system is connected, squeezing the brakes pushes the fluid through the lines. If there is air in the line, the air moves as well. When the brake is retracted, the fluid retracts, but the air remains put. The brake gets squeezed continually until all of the air is out of the lines. Of course, some of the fluid is lost in the process and we lose the fluid into the bottle. Once the process is completed, we disconnect the lines from the nipples and drain the remaining fluid in the line into the bottle. Then we have to refill the lost fluid into the reservoir. And, please, use NEW fluid... don't use the used fluid.
Let's begin:
[img[The Banjo Bolt|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/020.jpg]] [img[The Banjo Bolt|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/019.jpg]]
This is the Banjo Bolt. Specifically, the circled part is. It consists of four parts: two crush washers, the bolt, and the banjo fitting.
[img[The Bleed Nipple|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/015.jpg]]
Locate the bleed nipple. It's located on the caliber assembly. There are two of these... one for each caliper.
On a side note, I find it amazing that motorcycles have two brake rotors for one wheel... on each wheel. Can you imagine the stopping power on a car if we did this to all four wheels?
[img[Remove the Nipple Cover|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/016.jpg]]
Peel away the pasty... er... the nipple cover (hehe,) ok, the //dust// cover. Removing this exposes the nipple (hehe.) This is where we will insert our bleeding lines...
[img[The Bleeding Lines|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/017.jpg]]
So then insert the bleeding lines. Remember to do this on both calipers.
[img[Bleed Kit, Connected|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/018.jpg]]
When completed, the system should resemble this. This kit has a magnet on it to keep it steady. I attached it to the iron rotors. (Magnets only stick to iron and its alloys and nickel, not plastic or aluminum.)
[img[The Banjo Bolt|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/019.jpg]]
Back to the bolt assembly.
[img[Un-bolt the Bolt|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/021.jpg]]
Place a rag under the assembly to catch any stray fluid. Out of curiosity, I squeezed the brake, lightly, and of course, out came some fluid. Imagine that!
[img[The Banjo Bolt, Removed|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/022.jpg]]
This is what the bolt looks like removed.
Once again, this was a two handed job (the brake line wanted to flop everywhere. I took no pictures of actually flipping the banjo fitting.
The banjo fitting is the part that the brake line is attached to. It sits between the two crush washers.
You should flip it as you see it in your //mind's eye.//
Once it's done...
[img[The Actual "Flipping" Part|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/023.jpg]]
Turn the bolt as physics will allow you. This, of course, adds torque to the brake line, but it's rubber, so whatever.
[img[The Flip. Completed|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/024.jpg]]
The Banjo, flipped. Well, the intransitive verb //flipped// speaks volumes. I don't know the torque specs on this bolt. I just turn the socket wrench at the neck until I can't turn it anymore. I would advise against over-torquing.
This process introduced a small amount of air into the line. This is a problem.
__//WARNING... PHYSICS AHEAD... WARNING//__
Hydraulic Fluid, like most liquids, is incompressible. That is what makes it work so well as a medium to push the calipers closed.
When air is introduced in the line we lose break power. This is because air is compressible. A bubble of air inside the fluid allows the fluid above the air bubble to compress the air bubble. This delays the action of pushing on the hydraulic fluid below the air into the caliper. The more air we have in the line, the larger the delay and the softer the breaks will feel. Ultimately, you might slam into the back of a car if you don't bleed those lines.
[img[Open the Valve|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/025.jpg]] [img[The Kit Installed|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/026.jpg]]
Use the crescent wrench, or an open-ended box wrench to open the valve nut at the base of the nipple. Fluid should flow almost immediately. Do this to both sides.
[img[The Kit Installed|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/027.jpg]]
Once the kit is attached, squeeze the brakes until the line is completely clear of all air bubbles. Make sure the bottle is below the calipers.
[img[The Kit Installed|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/028.jpg]]
Reclose the valves on both calipers, FIRST; then disconnect the bleed lines. Because the bottle was below the calipers, the fluid flows into the bottle instead of onto the ground.
Remember: Reclose the valves on both calipers, FIRST.
Your brakes are now bled of any air bubbles. We will refill the brake fluid as a last step to replacing the handlebar.
Go on to [[Suburban Machinery Bar Installation, Part 3]]
So far we have done the following:
*Disconnected and removed all pertinent parts from the left side of the old bar
*Flipped the "banjo bolt"
*bled the brakes and sealed the system
No we have to finish removing the old bar from the bike and prep our new bar for installation.
First we have to remove all pertinent parts from the right side of the bar.
Let's look at where we sit right now:
[img[Almost There...|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/053.jpg]]
This is not much different than before the banjo flip...
[img[Unscrewing the Throttle Housing|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/029.jpg]]
First we need to remove the screws for the throttle housing. Regard the "up" stamped on the housing: This denotes the orientation during reinstall.
[img[Removing the Housing|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/030.jpg]]
The throttle housing is assembled similarly to the electronics housing: two halves with stuff inside. The throttle housing contains the throttle cam and some electronic connections for starting the bike.
[img[Brake Signal|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/031.jpg]]
Also part of the throttle housing is the routing for all electrical wiring on the right side of the bar. This includes the brake light wires which connect to the master cylinder. These need to be disconnected. Just pull them with some firmness. They are only spade connectors.
[img[Removing the Positive Throttle Cable|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/032.jpg]]
The throttle cam contains two cable connections: positive throttle and negative throttle. The positive throttle cable is on the top of the cam. This positive cable needs to be removed (ideally) to remove the throttle assembly from the bar.
[img[Both Throttle Cables|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/033.jpg]]
For more clarification on the throttle assembly, these are the two cables. Slacken the lower (negative) cable to facilitate the throttle tub removal. There is no need to remove the grip from the tube (unless you are changing the grips.)
[img[Unbolting the Brake Assembly|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/034.jpg]]
Using the apporpriate hex wrench, unbolt the clamp holding the brake assembly.
[img[Removing the Old Bar|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/035.jpg]]
Once all the pertinent pieces are removed, finish unbolting the triple-tree clamp...
[img[What a Piece of Garbage|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/036.jpg]]
...and discrad the old bar. I threw mine on the ground and spit in its general direction.
[img[All the Pieces We Need|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/037.jpg]]
If you have been a good, //organized// mechanic, you would have placed the pieces you still need aside in appropriate groupings suitable for easy categorization and handy accessibility. I placed mine on the shipping paper for the new bar.
[img[Function Test... Anyone?|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/038.jpg]]
Now we need to give the bike a good test ride to make sure everything still works.
Seriously, this is what your bike should look like at this point. Of course, if your bike is anything other than black, it will most likely look slower than this.
[img[Measuring the Bar|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/039.jpg]]
We need to prep the new bar, now. Start by measuring the center shaft. I used a drafting scale to get easy-to-read 1/10 inch measurements. The bar should be 6.5 inches. If it is not, you may want to contact Suburban Machinery... because it should be 6.5 inches.
[img[Marking the Center|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/040.jpg]]
Using a water-delible pen, mark the center point on the center shaft. (hint: it will be one-half of 6.5 inches) This doesn't need to be //exact//, though it helps.
[img[Lining Up the Mark|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/041.jpg]]
[img[Bolting on the New Bar|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/042.jpg]]
Hand tighten the four bolts. DO NOT use a wrench at this point. You will still need to adjust the angle of the bar for comfort.
Now we need to reattach all of the components in the opposite order that we removed them.
[img[The Brake Lever|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/043.jpg]]
Reattach the brake lever. Hand -tighten the bolts, top to bottom to top, a little each time to ensure even clamping.
[img[Realigning the Negative Cable|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/044.jpg]]
Add the front of throttle housing, making sure to reattach and realign all throttle components.
[img[Alignment Peg|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/045.jpg]]
Each back component to each housing unit contains a peg to align the housing units on the bar. This particular unit has a broken one, as is the case with many throttle housings on these bikes.
[img[Almost There...|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/046.jpg]]
Screw the throttle housing back on. If your alignment peg is broken, it might be a good idea to ensure the proper alignment of the throttle housing before fully tightening. Another good tip is to wrap one layer of electrical tape around the bar where the housing sits. This should allow enough friction and compression on the bar to prevent the movement of the housing.
[img[Re-insert the Left Grip|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/047.jpg]]
We still haven't put the left grip back on. For this feat, we use hairspray; common, good-old-fashioned, sure-I-use-it-sometimes-but-it-doesn't-make-me-gay hairspray. Also, you will ignore the fact that I have a travel-size.
Just spray the hairspray, liberally, inside the grip on all surfaces and slide it on the bar. Twist it as you push it. In a few hours it will re-stick and be unmovable.
At this point, you are almost set. We are missing one, last crucial step: Refill our brake fluid. Oh yeah...
[img[Unscrew...|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/048.jpg]]
Locate the resevoir, and unscrew.
[img[Lift...|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/049.jpg]]
Lift the secondary cover. It's actually the //real// cover. The black one is for that show-quality effect.
[img[Expose the Rubber...|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/050.jpg]]
This is the rubber gasket. It looks like it has depth. It does. Do not pour anything in here. If you do... well you might make a mess...
[img[Play with Your Rubber|http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/051.jpg]]
...because you need to lift it up and //then// pour the brake fluid in. (DOH!)
And then in reverse:
[img[ |http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/050.jpg]]
[img[ |http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/049.jpg]]
[img[ |http://www.fortycaliber.org/wiki/sm_bar_howto/048.jpg]]
And finally...
Well, that's it.
After all of that, I forgot to photograph the finished product. Oh well. Eventually I will take yet, another picture of the bike.
A quick tour: To the left is the main menu. It contains all of the priority links, internal and external, for this site. Other links exist, but they may not be as important and may be linked within other entries. To the right is mainly crap that //I// have to deal with. Ignore most of it, as most of it has nothing to do with the average end-user.
This site does depend on help from the user community. I am always looking for bits and pieces to fill in the gaps. If you have anything you'd like to share concerning Kawasaki, the Ninja 650R, or riding in general...
Email me at "[[acsempronio at gmail dot com|mailto:acsempronio@gmail.com]]."
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